(My) Kinky hair
Leanna:
After reading Akilah’s post I had a conversation with Mr. H and he asked that I share some of it here.
I can relate to some of the things Akilah explained. She stated that she not spending a lot of money on her hair, or not having a strong desire to straighten or alter it, was not because of a better reasoned out position but because there is less societal pressure on her where that is concerned. The same applied to me. For the most part, my hair is accepted by the general public in its natural state.
However, maintaining my hair now is costly. This is so because I try to purchase products with the least chemicals while ensuring that I understand the ingredients my hair likes and dislikes.
Akilah pointed to the fact that me having preferred hair made these videos easier to watch. Being brown skin further contributes to this ease. I had no struggle in looking at the videos to get information as I wasn’t thinking about racism or colorism at the time.
I am not sure how I feel about me watching those videos and not be overly affected by the racism and colorism in them.
Nakandi:
I appreciate all the views shared here. Reading through the replies I got some thoughts that I would like to share, for perhaps further development.
Due to a smaller diversity in races in many continental countries, the race related concepts tend to be a little different from diasporan definitions. However, I find that they all represent the same thing; anti-Africaness. Of all the continental communities I have been part of, any kind of hair that doesn't look like the Khoikhoi hair is 'good' hair as it is step away from a very African trait. There is of course a hierarchy of 'good' hair . Another difference I have noticed is what continental Africans attach to length. Before it is about femininity, it is about whiteness. When I was growing up length was married to straight hair, and/or hair that 'falls' naturally. These were characteristics of non-Africans, notably the white female. When a person with munyerere hair (good hair) grows out their hair, the 'beauty' in it is said to be its resemblance to white hair.
Language used about kinky hair is indeed another anti-African outlet. Whenever I braided my natural hair it was because it was 'hard' to manage because it took so much time and I had to study for exams (eye roll). That might be true to some people, but I know for me, the anti-kink hairstyles I wanted were what demanded that much more work. It became harder to manage if the style wasn't at all suitable for my hair. Because I could not achieve the flawed looks I desired on most occasions, I deemed my hair unmanageable.
The non-kinky haired (and light skinned) YouTubers getting many views has led to a growth in hair product variety for their hair types and the competition has led to cheaper prices too. It is thus harder to find reviews of products that could be better suited for kinky hair, and when found they are quite costly. This continues to make experimenting more challenging. Although I know that people are usually more willing to spend a lot of money on the upkeep of non-kinky hair...
Leslie, this is how I am understanding what you said about hair being political. That it isn't the hair itself that is political as it is the choice to wear it natural.
Continuing on the topic of it being political. What I eventually gathered from the "4C" YouTubers is that making that political decision does not necessarily mean that one likes ones hair. What this has created is a pseudo pro-African self love movement, where kinky hair is okay when not kinky.
leslie:
Nakandi, yes, hair in itself is not political; but it is more than choosing to wear one’s natural hair that makes it so. For example, some religions may require “modesty” which may entail one not straightening or overly styling one’s hair; it could be that one may feel that one is too old to indulge in hair straightening and thus stop processing it; it may be because one can no longer afford to straighten one’s hair; one may fear losing length due to chemical damage; and the motives can go on and on ad infinitum. These choices are just some of the reasons that I’ve seen, heard or observed why people wear natural hair.
Natural hair being political is about knowing how one can be perceived by wearing one’s hair in its natural state, having an (historical) understanding as to why the very hair that grows out of one’s head may be seen as anti-establishment or controversial, not conforming to or resisting Western standards that continue to promote racism and colourism despite possible fall-outs and criticism, and being very clear about that choice. Of course, people with the kinkiest hair types have the ability to make the biggest political statements or can have the deepest political impact depending on their motives.
In my view, making a political statement about one’s hair does not automatically translate to self-love. Like for me, it can be a first in many steps towards it.
Leanna:
Nakandi said: “The non-kinky haired (and light skinned) YouTubers getting many views has led to a growth in hair product variety for their hair types and the competition has led to cheaper prices too. It is thus harder to find reviews of products that could be better suited for kinky hair, and when found they are quite costly.”
Certain products may be popular among YouTubers with non-kinky hair; however searching for reviews about hair products based on hair texture is a common mistake. Certainly products are used more commonly by people with a certain hair texture. However, from my research and experience in dealing with my own hair, texture is not a main determinant in buying a hair product, many people believe that. However, factors such as porosity of your hair, the natural colour of your hair, if your hair is protein sensitive, the weather (persons alternate products based on seasons) and your work place -- if you are in air conditioned rooms for a long periods -- are some factors to consider. Based on some of these factors you may want to avoid or opt for a humectant like glycerine as well as avoid certain oils or butters when choosing a product.
Nakandi:
Leanna, I am indeed one of the people who fell for the trap of texture dictating hair product choice. Which on further thought is a bit of lazy thinking given that people with kinky hair tend to have a combination of textures, and this is true to me.
I recently took to learning about the physiology of hair. In addition to the factors you listed there, I found the role the endocrine and exocrine climate play intriguing. In that those two factors alone can change how one's hair reacts at different times to a product, in identical settings. I have a number of unfinished products that once did what I wanted for my hair, but then stopped. I have concluded that the change could have been brought on by my inner climate change.
It might not be a political or noble lesson, but there is a tranquility that is coming with me learning about the nature of kinky hair. Seeing images of how the kink forms and understanding the phenotype a little better came with an acceptance (I did not expect). Understanding it on that level makes the colonial way of grooming I was taught simply unnatural and nonsensical.
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